This past week, Orange County’s surf breaks saw fewer surfers than usual, a result of the recent rainfall. Over the weekend, when I visited San Onofre, I noticed a long line of cars, but only a few surfers were in the water. The same scene unfolded around Trestles: the beach was busy, but the water remained relatively empty. So, what was causing the lull in surfing, especially since the rain had stopped?
The reduced surf activity at San Onofre is primarily due to logistical issues rather than weather conditions. San Onofre’s lower parking lots are prone to flooding, and park rangers must assess each morning whether traffic can be allowed to park near the beach. If flooding prevents access to the lower lots, only the upper lot is open, leading to fewer cars and surfers, as they would have to walk farther to reach the surf.
For other surf breaks without controlled parking or direct beachfront access, the main reason for fewer surfers is water safety. According to the Scripps Institute of Oceanography, storm runoff can carry a range of contaminants such as bacteria, fertilizers, oil, and sewage into the ocean. One study by UC Irvine found that bacteria concentrations could be 500% higher than recommended levels for bathing water quality after rain events in Southern California.
The good news is that the risk of exposure to these contaminants is temporary. The Department of Environmental Health advises staying out of the ocean for 72 hours after a rainstorm to reduce the risk of infection. While the highest risk occurs on the first day after a storm, the bacteria levels typically return to normal after three days.
It’s always a good idea to check local water safety advisories before heading out, especially around storm drains or rivermouths, which tend to be more dangerous. Areas with less concentrated runoff are usually safer sooner. Tools like the Beach Report Card can help surfers stay informed about local water quality and determine when it’s safe to return to the water.
Ella Boyd, a writer and photographer, has contributed to several publications including The Surftime Journal, Powder, Surfer, Daybreak Magazine, The Inertia, and The Encyclopedia of Surfing. In 2023, she was a finalist for the Follow the Light Surf Photography Grant Program. She mostly rides a log but switches to a surf mat or kneeboard depending on the conditions. You can find her work at ella-boyd.com.